The Dip is named after the substance that kills cartoons in Who Framed Roger Rabbit?, but its effect on humans is pretty awesome. Run by Levins, (DJ and Weber-blitzing ace) and Bianca Khalil (sandwichface.com), this canteen inside Goodgod inspires “I’m so glad this exists” gratitude.

The golden-brown, addictive fries are piled with fresh salsa (the jumble of tomato is such a great enabler of eating more chips), the Double Bean Nachos ($14) is a fine napkin-messing mass of smoky, earthy pinto and black beans, shot through with salsa, spicy chipotle and tangy lime cream. One bite into the Southern Smoke ($12) sandwich, which is loaded with 12-hour-smoked pulled pork and apple/cabbage slaw, Will made a face that can only be translated via exclamation marks. And choosing between the Ice Cold Guac ($10) and the Cookies & Cream ($10) is like the dessert equivalent of Betty vs Veronica or Brooke vs Taylor. The for and against arguments will continue for ages, although the fact that the salted caramel ice cream (nicely wedged between choc-molasses biscuits) will now be sprinkled with crunchy toffee shards probably means it will narrowly out-ace the avocado ice cream and strawberry-mint salsa with waffle chips.

This is the first time I’ve mentioned an eatery on the blog where I am friends with the people behind it (and declaration: I had two complimentary mini ice-cream sambos at the launch!), but I would still love The Dip even if we were strangers. I think the fact that this place happened to be packed on a bitterly cold Wednesday night – the first Wednesday since it opened – and the vibe rated pretty highly on the “how good is this place?” scale, I think that says a lot. Plus, it’s so reasonably priced and it’s fast food with heart and wit (inspired by everything from Vietnamese avocado smoothies to Ron Swanson). Unless you’re a cartoon, try The Dip.

The Dip at Goodgod, 55 Liverpool Street, Sydney NSW thedip.com.au