One Penny Red in Summer Hill used to be a post office and you could imagine the old declaration forms being put to good use by people who’ve enjoyed the brunch there (they wouldn’t have to stick such claims to a departing package, though).

Mushrooms ($14) – slick with confit garlic butter and curls of pecorino –  saturate nicely through thick toast that turns out to be a good test case for soaking up flavour. There’s also the One Penny Red Cheeseburger ($18), stacked with grass-fed beef, oozy Gruyere, pickles and good condiment back-up from aioli and tomato jam (a guarantee that your plate will also be a mess, but as Will found, this sauce overspill was not incompatible with the crisps that the burger come served with).

You can also get Crisp Spiced Salt Potatoes ($10) if you want to overdo the carb intake (any objection to this should be overruled). If you order salad as a flimsy alibi for taking up this option, that’s totally fine, too. The Pineapple and Passionfruit House-Made soda ($5) is a sweet tropical jolt – and a lovely way to get a summer flashback during these chilly days. The Daily Juice ($6) offers a sunny hit, too. The service radiates warmth, too, with one notable grumpy exception.

One Penny Red is a change of address for R.J. Lines, who used to be a chef at Neutral Bay Diner, and David Murphy and Nina Alidenes of local haunt Envy.

Brunch happens in the casual setting downstairs, but One Penny Red has an upstairs section for the “big kids”; after the cafe-style service ends, the place shapeshifts into bar and restaurant mode, too. But the good news is that you can order the Crisp Spiced Salt Potatoes all day. I guess that qualifies as a priority delivery service.

One Penny Red, 2 Moonbie St, Summer Hill NSW (02) 9797 8118, onepennyred.com.au.