Hot Dog, Fish Taco, Sunday Roast – these are some of the not-so-standard toppings on offer at Milk Bar Pizza in Redfern. Here, you can also order slices flavoured with Korean Chicken or Cheeseburger elements and there’s even a Vego “Meat Lovers” creation that’s loaded with almost everything you could buy from Suzy Spoon’s Vegetarian Butcher.
This eatery is the newest project for the folks from The Milk Bar by Cafe Ish around the corner, and it feels like they’re aiming to be the Gelato Messina of pizza. There’s a Chicken Kebab flavour, topped with tabbouleh and garlic sauce, that probably tastes pretty good at a seedy hour, but translates just as well at a less hangover-haunted dinnertime, according to Will. The Sunday Roast, too, with its gravy base and oven-crisp vegies, is appetite-warming and satisfying any time of the week. And it’s nice to see that the vegetarian selection goes beyond plain margarita: the eggplant and cauliflower Indian Curry in particular, is ultra-spiced, a-swirl with garlic sauce and, all in all, delicious.
This store is placed opposite Domino’s Pizza – not only geographically, but literally. It’s small, there’s no flashy advertising or stack of coupon offers (Milk Bar’s Space Invaders wall is cooler than any corporate brand, though), and each oven-hot order feels individual, rather than just another unit sold.
Some of The Milk Bar by Cafe Ish’s dishes are being reworked for its pizzeria spin-off – the popular crab omelette will be custom-fitted as a pizza you can order and the super-jammy donuts will be imported to the dessert selection. As you’d guess from all the quirky toppings, this establishment isn’t aiming for authenticity (so don’t scan its walls for an certificate of official recognition from a tradition-adhering pizza-making body in Naples). The bases aren’t rustic and thin, for instance – they’re unapologetically padded and suitably thick enough to carry the ingredient-heavy toppings; and, at $12 a pizza, this place scores for its incredibly cheap and cheery menu. Like the Space Invaders game that lends its pixellated marks to this pizzeria’s interiors, Milk Bar Pizza is unashamed fun. So come out and play.