Little H in Surry Hills is the junior version of Bar H. So while it shares the same location as Hamish Ingham and Rebecca Lines’s acclaimed restaurant, it has a less grown-up curfew. Little H is open Monday-Friday, 11.30am-2.30pm, and is limited to takeaway only, but its short, supervised appearances are worth knowing about because the menu is worth your time.

After a visit to the Little H takeaway window, you might end up with paper boxes filled with Deep-fried Chicken Wings with Sichuan Pepper ($3.50), Little H’s signature Pork Burger with Fennel and Mint ($12) or a Sticky Rice Parcel with Chinese Sausage and Mushroom ($8). Even if you’re a tofu skeptic, the Deep-fried Silken Tofu with Caramelised Tomato Sauce ($13) is knockout great: the ultra-rich, sweet tomato chunks are bolted through with gingery flavour. It reminds me a little of a similar dish I’ve had at Billy Kwong (where Hamish Ingham used to work), but exponentially better. I also loved the Dessert of the Day ($8): fresh fig and sago dressed in crazy-delicious swirls of caramel. After each spoonful, I could feel my brain doing pinwheels. Also brilliant is the Little H Star Anise Ice Coffee ($4.50) – it’s a well-spiced shake-up of the standard caffeine fix.

It only opened on Monday, but it feels like Little H is a keeper. Like the excellent Miss Chu, it’s a quality Asian canteen doing good things. Marks-wise, I’d give it a not-so-little A.

Little H (on the site of Bar H), 80 Campbell St, Surry Hills NSW (02) 9280 1980. Follow Bar H and Little H updates on Twitter.