The first time I was adrenalised by a meal was at Bentley Restaurant and Bar in Surry Hills. It was visit number one, the beginning of many trips. That dinner was charged with high-voltage flavours; and it unlifted so many surprises, I was amazed when my feet hit the ground again and life resettled to its normal, gravity-obeying state. Bentley was what inspired me to start this blog, back in 2007, and now that the Surry Hills location is closing, I can only recommend a last-minute visit if you can fit it in.

The upside is that Bentley will be relocating to a much bigger space at the Radisson Blu hotel in the city. (If you’re wondering which building it is, you’ve probably walked past it on the way to Circular Quay, and noticed its seriously imposing columns at the Bistro Fax entrance.) In the meantime, the great team of Brent Savage and Nick Hildebrandt will still be busy at Monopole in Potts Point and, according to last week’s Good Food, there’s a rumour they’re working on another venture in the area, too.

Bentley serves its last meal in Surry Hills on August 10. Other reasons to revisit include the fact it’s reintroducing some old favourites onto the menu (including the knockout gazpacho) and talented alumni like Dan Hong (Mr Wong) and Louis Tikaram (Longrain) are taking part in a special dinner on August 5.

So head back and, for a whole mealtime, you might forget what gravity is like.

Bentley Restaurant and Bar, 320 Crown St Surry Hills NSW (02) 9332 2344, www.thebentley.com.au. Follow Bentley on Twitter.