Jazushi has been on my “meaning-to-try” list for so long now. It’s gotten to the point where people are getting married, having babies and growing impressive years-in-the-making beards and I still haven’t achieved the simple goal of going to the actual restaurant.

My friend Rach doesn’t have a Rip Van Winkle beard but she IS getting married and she had the fine idea of having her hen’s night dinner at Jazushi. We’d always been mystified by the restaurant’s approach (how could it serve Frenchy-influenced Japanese, when Gallic menus are so heavy and fat-glistening and Japanese food is light, fresh and crisp?) but it turns out each cuisine is easily bonded by random inclusion of cheese. Hence the Camembert Tempura, which is squishy and bubbly as you do a cutlery autopsy on it but very moreish and comforting once you start chomping away on the crispy batter cheese eclair. The modern Japanese nibblies (complete with wasabi leaf) were also very good – especially one eggplant hors d’oeuvre that even won over an anti-aubergine diner.

Also, the jazz factor adds a nice rhythm to proceedings here. I’ll try not to wait for another generation of babies and weddings (and beard growth) to visit again.

Jazushi, 145 Devonshire Street cnr Clisdell Street, Surry Hills NSW (02) 9699 8977, www.jazushi.com.au