Even though the warmer spring weather we’re hoping for seems to be running behind schedule (like a band going through a spectacularly long sound-check), there’s one consolation – the Passionfruit Meringues ($5) at Bourke Street Bakery. These started to appear, about a month or so ago, in the counter displays of the Marrickville branch. The plan was: they would later join the line-up at the other stores if they became popular. Luckily, the pastries passed the audience awareness test and you don’t have to make the pilgrimage to Marrickville if there’s a closer Bourke Street Bakery to you.

The Italian meringue topping flares up like a comet-tail – lighter than light and all soft, aerated ruffles. Bringing it down to gravity is the zippy passionfruit bavarois, cased in a pastry shell that crumbles perfectly on bite – the easy landing you’re after. If spring would play temperature catch-up with the actual calendar, this could be my favourite flavour of the season.

PS This also appears in the Bourke Street Bakery cookbook, if you feel like getting out your sugar thermometer and measuring cups.

Bourke Street Bakery: 474 Gardeners Road, Alexandria NSW (02) 8339 1001; 633 Bourke St, Surry Hills NSW (02) 9699 1011; 2 Mitchell St, Marrickville NSW (02) 9569 3225.