The Unbearable Lightness of Being Hungry | A Sydney Food Blog

Youeni Foodstore, Surry Hills

May 27th, 2012  |  Published in Uncategorized  |  7 Comments

Youeni Foodstore

Sometimes you have to recompose yourself after discovering something you like a lot. So, after calming the hell down, I can finally tell you about Youeni Foodstore in Surry Hills – it’s now my new favourite place to eat.

It’s the spin-off of Youeni Provides, which is a few blocks and sneaky footsteps away. Like that joint, it’s also run by Chris Starke (former pastry chef at Marque).

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Youeni Foodstore has a hideout feel – it’s tucked down Hill Street, a laneway-sized passage that feels unremarkable until you see the scattershot colour and configurations of several design stores. In between these easy-on-the-eye boutiques is a courtyard, small verandah and a hole-in-the-wall kitchen. This is the patchwork space occupied by Youeni Foodstore and what it lacks in traditional floor size, it totally makes up for in charm.

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When you see the eatery’s menu, it suggests you add the hashtag #youenifoodstore if you have any Instagram inclinations. Unsurprisingly, this place is kinda Instagram-worthy. There are small visual touches – such as a vase of arresting cabbage flowers or a wine crate doubling as new digs for plants – that translate well to the photo-album nature of social media. Also worth broadcasting to an online audience is the food here; it’s simple, smart food done really well.

youeni_foodstore_surryhills_flowers

For instance, the Scrambled Eggs ($12) are the straight-out best I’ve ever had. Often, this breakfast staple can be forgettable and just a licence to pile far more show-stealing sides on toast. But at Youeni Foodstore, the eggs are keening with flavour. They’re a little creamy, with a few herb flourishes, and, thanks to the bite and firepower of generously ground pepper, there’s a punchy finish. This dish is balanced with other elements that deserve equal billing – the ridiculously good mushrooms (the gorgeous tangle of enoki, oyster and buttons are seasoned to the max) and caramelly-sweet, robustly roasted tomatoes.

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Also worth a rave is the Beef Brisket with caramelised onions, pomme puree and green salad ($14), which I heard the diner next to me gushing about; and while I was deciding whether to order the Pâte Brisée Tart ($5 takeaway; $8 with side salad), a woman nearby intervened and put forward a strong case for my buying one, because she thought the tarts were very good. (She was right; they are.) Unless they were part of some Truman Show-style rent-a-crowd, I thought this level of unprompted cheerleading for an eatery was a good sign.

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Other things I liked: the Roasted Pumpkin Salad ($12), which is tossed through with pepitas, salted rosemary breadcrumbs, pea tendrils and cottage cheese; the sweet tarts (Glazed Lemon is good, while the Chocolate nicely offers up the bitter, refined edge of dark choc instead of the full-on, oversweet giddiness you usually expect); and also worth mentioning is a very excellent juice I had on my first visit. Being hopeless and indecisive about what to drink, I asked to be surprised. So I got the “Sara Special”, named after the lovely waitress who served me and who also came up with the genius mix of apple, pear, ginger and a dash of beetroot. It was sweet, continually surprising and plush with radiant colour.

Youeni Foodstore, Surry Hills

Other reasons to be pro-Youeni-Foodstore: if you haven’t already wised up to this, the menu offers interesting options (so don’t expect seen-it-before dishes – here, you’ll be getting a Honey Mustard Caramelised Ham, Caramelised Green Apple, Horseradish Mayo and Rocket sandwich or White Anchovies on Toast, Tomato Citrus Salsa, House-made Creme Fraiche and Chorizo for breakfast); these multitaskers make everything themselves, from the pastries to the coffee to the cultured butter with Dead Sea salt – and while the bread is currently by Sonoma, it soon will be coming out of Youeni’s own ovens; it’s the sort of place where, when the temperature drops, the staff ask you if you’d like a blanket to stay warm; and it’s in a really nice, mostly undiscovered spot of Surry Hills – tucked between the visual candy of boutiques such as Euroluce, Arthur G’s and the very excellent Workshopped, which showcases upcoming Australian designers and is full of attractive and whimsical furniture (I like these “cross-stitched” chairs).

Youeni Foodstore

Youeni Foodstore has been quietly open for 11 days, but launches properly on June 2. After that, it will ramp up from its current breakfast-and-lunch-only opening hours and also offer five-course dinners, too. I’d love to know how it eventually translates after dark.

Youeni Foodstore, Surry Hills

Something that’s obvious right now, though, is the friendliness and enthusiasm on display – and this is probably best expressed when, after paying, you hunt around and have no success locating a tip jar. Sara explains that there isn’t one: “it’s not our culture. If you like what we do, just come back and visit us.”

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And I’m sure I will – again and again and again.

Youeni Foodstore, Shop 3, 8 Hill Street, Surry Hills NSW (02) 9380 7575, surryhills.youeni.com. You can also follow Youeni on Twitter.

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7 Comments

  1. I WISH I WAS IN SYD TO TRY!!! Looks amazing LTL! Great find!

  2. leetranlam says:

    Grace, I would LOVE to show you this place next time you are in town. Funny, I was just having their lemon tart literally seconds ago and thinking of you (it was not a “lemon tart of resentment”, haha); so it’s apt that you would be reading this and leaving a comment! Thanks for the lovely words. Hope you are ace. xo

  3. Bec Hem says:

    Yes to that ham sandwich! I love it when random other-patrons give suggestions!

  4. Ah I went last weekend but JUSt missed brekkie! Too sad. But the beef cheeks were so lovely. I really appreciated them using similar elements amongst their dishes too to highlight the seasonal stuff.

  5. Great review. Ill be going off here today. I would love to susbscribe to your blog cause I love it but cant figure out how. Is that dumb?Help please

  6. leetranlam says:

    Bec, I agree! Always like to hear other diners’ endorsements.
    Dee, sorry to hear you missed breakfast o’clock. Glad you enjoyed the beef checks. Hope you get to return for the first meal of the day.
    Tania, thanks for your nice words. No, not dumb at all to ask that question – I’m glad you brought it up. I’ve added an RSS subscribe button just under the archive section – hope that helps! Any problems, let me know!

  7. tanja says:

    Oh man ! Why am I only seeing this post now ?? I looked it up after your latest instagram pic. Is it too late ?? Is it now IMPOSSIBLE to get a table ?

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About

Hi, I'm Lee Tran Lam. When not blogging with my mouth full, I'm usually writing, presenting Local Fidelity on FBi radio, making zines, producing podcasts or continually breaking promises about how I really am gonna get through my book pile one day.

All the good pictures on this blog are by photography ace (and patient boyfriend), Will Reichelt, (all the dodgy ones can be credited to me)!

The lovely banner is by friend and ultra-talented illustrator Grace Lee.

This site redesign was made possible by the next-level generosity and expertise of Daniel Boud, whose code-tinkering ways are only outranked by his seriously inspired way with a camera.

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This is a blog I do for pure fun and zero influence – there's no sponsorship, sneaky advertorial or advertising. I pay for all the food mentioned, 'cos it seems the ethical thing to do.


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